Above this diorama of teeming urban life, and strained infrastructure rose the shining star of this place – the disarming hospitality, the inclusive temperament of Banarasis (as Varanasi denizens are lovingly known). Indeed, the biggest asset of the city is its people, who go about their daily lives within its ancient walls. Famously known for their “khulapan” – an openness of heart, speech and mind – they are what make Varanasi uniquely old-world and modern at the same time.